Forced Performance

Turbochargers. Nearly all of the FP catalog with us. Most are stock-location turbos that bolt into the factory position using factory-style oil and coolant connections, with larger compressor and turbine sections than the stock unit. Options vary by turbo and include:

• Bearing type. Journal bearing CHRAs, or XR versions that use FP's Xona ball bearing CHRA for quicker response and better tolerance of brief low oil flow during road racing or autocross.
• Turbine housing. Different housing sizes, such as 8cm² and 10cm² on the Subaru FP Black, to trade spool for top-end flow.
• Wastegate. Internal wastegate with a stock-style actuator or an upgraded TiAL MVI actuator at a higher spring pressure, external wastegate housings, or no wastegate actuator for custom setups.
• Extras. Many Subaru units include an oil feed line, banjo bolts, and up-pipe and downpipe gaskets.

Shop Forced Performance Turbochargers

Turbine housings. FP turbine housings for changing or replacing the hot side of an FP turbo.

Supercores. FP turbos sold without the turbine housing, for owners reusing a compatible housing.

Turbo service kits. Rebuild parts for refreshing an FP turbo.

FP Black, Green, or Red: which is right for me?

FP names its turbos by color, and each color is a step in airflow and power. The right one depends on your fuel, supporting parts, and how you drive.

FP Black is the largest-flowing of the three on the Subaru EJ platform, built around the 82HTZ compressor section and 84mm FAP cover. It suits built engines with upgraded fueling and a custom tune.

FP Green and FP Red are smaller steps in the lineup, typically chosen for quicker spool and street or dual-purpose builds.

Whichever you choose, a bigger turbo typically makes more peak power but spools later. If the car is a daily driver, a smaller turbo is often the better experience. Check FP's compressor map for each model before deciding.

• Match the platform and flange. FP turbos are built for specific engines and manifold flanges. Confirm your exact model, year, and engine, and whether you have a stock or aftermarket manifold and downpipe.
• Pick the turbine housing. A smaller housing typically spools sooner and suits street driving. A larger housing typically lowers exhaust backpressure and supports more top-end power.
• Choose the wastegate setup. An internal wastegate keeps the stock layout and is simpler to install. An external wastegate typically gives more precise boost control and resists boost creep on high-flow builds, but needs a compatible up-pipe or manifold.
• Pick the actuator. A stock-style actuator suits lower boost targets. A higher-pressure actuator holds the wastegate closed more firmly at higher boost.
• Journal or ball bearing. Journal bearing turbos are durable and cost less. XR ball bearing turbos typically spool a little quicker and better tolerate brief oil flow drops on track.
• Plan fueling and tuning. Every FP upgrade turbo needs a custom tune, and larger turbos typically need larger injectors, a higher-flow fuel pump, and a better intercooler.

Installation notes

• Allow for lead time. FP turbos are built to order, so plan your install date around delivery.
• Prepare the oil system. Change the oil, replace or inspect the feed and drain lines, and use FP's oil feed line where included.
• Clean the charge path. Flush oil and debris from the intercooler and charge pipes, especially if the old turbo failed.
• Prime the CHRA. Add clean oil to the bearing housing and crank with fuel and ignition disabled to build oil pressure before first start.
• Use new gaskets and hardware, and torque turbo, up-pipe, and downpipe fasteners to spec. Recheck after the first heat cycles.
• Check boost control. Confirm actuator preload and boost control plumbing, and watch for boost creep on the first road test.
• Tune before driving hard. Load a custom calibration matched to the turbo before any full-throttle driving.
• Cool down after hard runs. Let the engine idle briefly after hard driving to protect the bearings.

Common problems Forced Performance turbos address

A tired or failed stock turbo on a high-mileage WRX, STI, or Evo, with shaft play, oil smoke, or slow spool.

Running out of airflow on a modified car, where the factory turbo can't support the fueling and boost the engine is built for.

Boost creep on high-flow builds, where an external wastegate or upgraded actuator gives more control.